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Sewing Goodness Extracts

May 19, 2016

Do you recall how critical and skeptical I was about Vogue 1501 by Rachel Comey? Well Katie sew it up not once but twice. Now I wonder how it would look with the top made up in a different fabric than the skirt…

She also brought my attention to the Adele dress from Anne Durrieu, a new to me independent pattern label.

Another new to me pattern label is Blue Prints, and their latest release the Geodesic pullover.

I was amazed by the  woven denim secret agent trench coat so I really appreciate this post with some tips on how to replicate the technique.

Fold Away – Origami Depth

May 6, 2016

Shortly after I put Pattern Magic 3 on my wishlist, Origami Depth was announced. I love origami in clothing. Plus Pattern Magic 3 did not seem aimed at producing wearable garments, so the dilemma did not last long: I preordered Origami Depth, which was delivered a couple of weeks ago.

tr3_cover_grande

The book has ten chapters. It’s spiral bound, which I think is practical since it can be laid open flat as a reference in the drafting process. The pages are of glossy quality with some text, many photos and 2 DVDs. It’s not a must-have in my opinion, considering the number of videos from the author that are out there. It does give useful tips for the drafing processes that are depicted, however, it doesn’t give any more sewing or construction tips than the videos that can be found online. But it’s a nice book to have. To be contemplating and dreaming away about the possibilities…

Makes me want to revisit the bamboo shoot top or do something else altogether…

Sewing Goodness Extracts

April 19, 2016

Great tips from Norma Loehr on fitting a bra: here and here.

Have you looked at Hannah?

Is there such thing as a bodysuit for men? Yes, the boxtop!

Being able to sew is worth it, even you if you only buy RTW. If we didn’t no, now we know. But we knew, didn’t we?:)

And now some other non-goodness too. Vogue Patterns updated/changed their website and as a results, my wishlist disappeared for a few days (it is back now but I have the feeling items are missing :(). And my order history is gone and not to be brought back, according to Vogue. Similar happened to the Vlisco website a few months back: there’s no possibility to view one’s order history anymore, or save a wishlist. From a site that sells “classical” fabrics at prices some might want to think about before giving away the money, you have to search for that special fabric that once caught your eye again and again everytime you visit the site. Not user/customer-friendly at all. Sorry, I had to vent. Now I feel better.:) How do you like the new Vogue Patterns site, if you’ve been using the former one?

Sewing Goodness Extract

April 13, 2016

Oh-My-God. I dare anyone to not be impressed with this woven denim secret agent trench coat!

Wise Poppy

April 9, 2016

About the fabric, by Vlisco (Woven Wisdom collection):

Macramé is the beautiful craft of knotting ropes into ornamental designs. Our designer carried this fine craftwork into an extra large, outspoken design that’s an artwork in itself.

About the pattern:

poppy-zip-top

The Poppy Zip Front Top will become a wardrobe favourite. The slightly raised neckline, zip front and pleated back gives this style an elegant look that is both timeless and on-trend. The design lines create a flattering shape. Make it with the new short elbow length sleeve or leave it sleeveless.

My garment:

I thought I would be able to mirror the front and back but the fabric pattern was so intricate that even with 2 yards, it was a challenge. I think what killed it is that the symetry on the fabric is only on the vertical, not on the horizontal axis, and the pattern is so large that with 2 yards (and only 45 inches large), there’s not that many repeats. Anyway, the front sides are not symetric but IRL it’s not as noticeable as I feared. The back, however, is perfect, if may say so myself. I like how the rope pattern in the middle back mimics the spine.

This is the inside of the jacket. The facings are finished with bias. One of the front facings is pieced and I used another cotton fabric for the back facings, also due to fabric shortage. However, should I want to wear the top open, the front facings are mirrorred.

The only alteration I made was a fba. The high back slightly stays away from my neck so a round shoulder measurement would’ve been on order, I guess. Live and learn…

I skipped the large hem stitch and understitched all facings instead, also securing them to the seams allowances at the side seams, so they wouldn’t flip out. They do stay put.

The instructions are minimal, to say the least. As an example, here’s the first step:

Start by sewing the back neck darts followed by sewing centre back seams together, then back panel to the side back panels.

I think Vogue or Burda would have made 3 steps out of it. They also don’t say to only sew until the top of the pleats. One has to figure it out on one’s own, which works, thanks to the accurate markings, which all matched very well. So I’d say the good pattern drafting makes up for the brief instructions.

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To me, this is a is a hybrid between a shirt, worn closed with jeans, and a jacket, worn open over a dress or tank top and bottom. I wanted sleeves as per pattern but had to shorten them due to fabric limitations, which emphasizes the hybrid character even more IMO. I sense this is going to be worn a lot this summer…

Sewing Goodness Extracts

March 29, 2016

Look at Lady Danger and gasp in admiration.

Carolyn vowed to a Year of Handmade, and wil be making her own clothes, underwear and even shoes for the next 12 months. That’s a journey worth following. Respect!

Look at Falda. Maybe not avant garde but very unique.

A Vlisco Story – Eh Voilà!

March 29, 2016

First came this Vlisco Voilà for you fabric:

vl_fi_vl062617_r_00

Then I stumbled upon this inspiration picture, also by Vlisco:

Vlisco ~Latest African Fashion, African Prints, African fashion styles, African clothing, Nigerian style, Ghanaian fashion, African women dresses, African Bags, African shoes, Kitenge, Gele, Nigerian fashion, Ankara, Aso okè, Kenté, brocade. ~DKK:

Which made this pattern pop up in my head, already mentioned here back in 2014:

Enter the Easter weekend:

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Alterations made:

  • 2-cm FBA
  • Added a lining
  • Changed the one-piece sleeve with offset to a two-pieve sleeve
  • Small box pleat at elbows instead of gathering-This drafting feature makes the sleeves ergonomic, slightly tilted to the front at the elbow.
  • Understitched the collar
  • Interfaced the whole front, so my jacket probably isn’t as soft shaped as the original
  • Used a facing for the sleeves hem, with contrasting fabric
  • Wanted to add a back stay but let it be due to the fact that the pattern has no shoulder seams (very Donna Karan, isn’t it?). I did created shoulder seams on the lining, though, since I was short on lining fabric. I actually had to switch to gray for the sleeves.
  • Skipped the front button for the time being. May or may not add a snap fastener, time will tell…

The instructions are in German and English, rather brief but there are pictures included. I only followed them in part due to adding the lining.

There are not too many marks on the pattern pieces but this is well drafted and all the pieces fit well together. However, you might want to add more marks if drafting a lining, e.g. at the seams between facings and lining.

There’s a LOT of curve sewing involved, which makes this an intermediate to advanced pattern.

This is a garment I’m going to love. It’s loud but will make a nice statement if paired with a basic tee, jeans and pumps, or with a solid colored dress. The color possibilities are numerous here, since cream, brown, orange, black, pink and grey are displayed on the fabric.

I also cut and sew another Vlisco fabric but came to a halt when I realised I didn’t have the suitable zipper. Should be in the mail today, so stay tuned…

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