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Sewing Goodness Extracts

July 20, 2017

More than 83,500 patterns are now available online.

It’s summer! Make your own espadrilles!

But if you’re already in a “sewing plans for fall” modus, than look at Butterick’s and McCall’s latest releases. I think Lisette for Butterick B6482 has somewhat of a Rucci flair, but not only. What do you think about Beauté J’adore mix of the sleeve and blouson trends?

 

 

Lessons Learned

June 23, 2017

3 Years ago I made the hypnotic side panel dress, which I have since given away. I liked it and wore it but had to admit to a couple of mistakes that prevented me from *loving* it. First, the fabric I had chosen was a sturdy linen, with little drape. Then, at the time I made a cheat FBA i.e. tracing my high bust measurement size at the shoulders and transitioning to my full bust measurement size at the under armscye, not because I was lazy but because I did not know better. This time, I traced it anew and made a 3-cm armhole dart FBA separately on each side of the pattern. Why? Because the side panels are similar but not identical. I used my French curves to make sure the curves would still match and sure enough, the sewing was a breeze. That was a lot of work but it had to be prior to cutting into this juicy Vlisco fabric:

 

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The best is, I have enough to make another dress…

Quiet Trend (Mock-)Knot Style?

June 22, 2017

Still playing catching up with Instagram

The loudest trend of the year is definitely the Sleeve trend and it almost made me “overhear” this (mock-)knot style trend. Couple of examples are the Kielo Wrap dress by Named Clothing , the Trend patterns Knot Front Dress (which incorporates the cutout trend), Burda 05-2017-110 or Burda 03-2016-108. Not from this year but appropriate: Vogue 1310 by Chado Ralph Rucci, that may be worn as a dress.

I hopped on this bandwagon with the Juliet Woven Shirt by StyleArc, which also features the still quite popular mullet hem:

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My fabric is a linen with lurex stripes. It is quite see-through so I have to wear it with a tank underneath, which is the reason why I skipped the buttons so far despite having actually bought them… As you can see, I did wear it without the buttons and was considering adding only a single one at waist level but after test riding it, I will be adding the buttons as intended by the designer.

The instructions from Stylearc are quite brief as usual, with images provided only for a couple of key steps.

I made a regular 3-cm FBA on the left side, than cut the right side at the waist marking and transferring the FBA to the upper body. I then slashed the lower right front from waist to hem and opened it the 3 cm of my FBA, tapering to nothing at the hem. Worked a charm.

I love the play of the stripes. I wore this shirt on my first day of work at my new job and  it felt good 🙂

StyleArc Autum Dress for the Summer

June 20, 2017

If you follow me on Instagram, you know that I’ve been sewing a bit, albeit barely blogging. I have a new job and have also spent the best of the last weeks alone with the girls so had to prioritize but I’m now trying to work on my backlog. First comes the Autumn dress by Stylearc.

As I stated before, StyleArc’s instructions are held to a minimum. Also to me, the illustration showing the back pleat was misleading and I ended up ignoring it and relying on the technical design, the “pleat” and “center back” marks and my common sense to figure it out. I shot a picture:

Only alteration was a fba according to Maria Denmark’s tutorial for no-dart fronts. I also finished the hem by hemming it with bias instead of turning it up and sew as instructed.

Make sure to pick a lightweight fabric because there is a lot of fabric involved in that back pleat and it would weigh down the yoke if too heavy.

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Sewing Goodness Extracts

May 1, 2017

I never heard abour a trouser petticoat until this post from Corecouture. While you’re at it, have a look at her half a cold shoulder shirt.

This is the definition of labour of love.

Vogue 1531 has been popping up all around, one version prettier than the next

New pattern on my to sew list: the Kalle shirtdress. I also like the Collins top a lot. Aaaaand the La paz jacket from Itch to Stitch.

Instagram followers know that I’ve been sewing. I’m sorry, I just can’t seem to find the time to shoot pictures and draft posts for the blog. 😦

Vogue Patterns Summer 2017

April 7, 2017

You can tell my enthusiasm doesn’t rocket high when it takes a week for me to review Vogue’s latest release. Though I have to attenuate that, I guess this is just one of those case where you have to look at the patterns several times to let them grow on you. Here are my thoughts:

I liked Vogue 1544 from Tom and Linda Platt right away. Dresses with a highligh in the back like this are simple, classic, very Breakfast at Tiffany’s, to me 🙂

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Vogue 1550 by Paco Peralta is fashion and art teacher-y (without wanting to offense any art teacher) at the same time. I like it, especially with the length options.

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Vogue 1542 By Patricia Jeanne Keay is something I would make for myself (without the embelishment but I may than wear it with a brooch) or for my daughter (with the embellishment). It would fit and flatter a variety of figures.

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Vogue 1548 by Guy Laroche is growing on me. To be honest, I would skip the sleeves and make it either sleeveless or with cap sleeves. I don’t think many people could rock them and I don’t like long sleeves on dresses anyway. The cleavage may have to be made less generous. And that ruffle hem band, I don’t know… The skirt does need to be lengthened, that’s for sure. But as is, it looks like it would become a tulip skirt. I think a pencil skirt or a flare pleated skirt would be more flattering. Anyhow, there’s potential there.

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Vogue 1543 by Anne Klein I like, but those pleats in chiffon may be challenging to sew… Vogue 9256 by Kathryn Brenne makes me think of scrubs with a twist, but I like view B of V9263 by Kathryn Brenne. V9252 would be nice in a wax fabric, with the wrong side showing…

What are your picks?

First name: Maraude, last name: Vlisco

April 4, 2017

This is my latest make and there’s not much to say about it, other than I really like it. The fabric is from Vlisco and it was a gift from my uncle while I was visiting him last year. Someone gave him a hot tip, and I suspect my dad. 🙂 The pattern is Aime comme Maraude from the French brand Aime comme Marie.

(c) lin3arossa

 

 

What I like especially:

 

  • the bias finish. There are about 9 meters of bias in this garment. I didn’t find it the least tedious to sew and I think it looks great
  • The big chest pocket I can put my phone into.

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What I changed:

  • I skipped the center back seam. I don’t recall if I did it on purpose of I overlooked the indication to cut 2 half-backs. This means that the fabric pattern is unbroken in the back, but I believe a center back seam would give the back a bit more structure, since the jacket is not lined and the seam would be finished with bias.
  • I’m not sure I will add the collar tab and band and if I do, I will certainly not do it as foreseen in the pattern. I will add 3 loops to the undercollar and sew them by hand so that the stitches are not visible on the upper collar, then make a single neck band with D-rings on one end. We’ll see. If I had thought about if early enough, I would have done it while constructing the collar.
  • I made a no-dart FBA, which I could have possibly skipped. The fit is really relaxed.
  • I also understitched a couple of places although not instructed to, e.g. the collar…

As much as I like the final garment, I think a few things may be revisited:

  • there is no technical drawing of the back, not in the pattern and not on the site. Thankfully, there are enough photos of finished garments on the internet. Also, the tech drawing of the front is not consistent: it should show the topstitching around the armscye, similar to that of the hem. It rather visible on finished garment pictures.
  • the grain is not indicated on pattern pieces DEFGH. Ok, these are all “minor” pieces, they are the bands, loops and tabs for the sleeves and back. And it’s pretty obvious how they should be cut if you look at the cutting layout included and with somewhat sewing experience. But still.
  • a list of notions (D-rings, interfacing, etc) is not included in the pattern, although available online.

Nothing major, really. There are also very few markings but they are more than sufficient to construct the jacket successfully and this speaks for a very good drafting.

I could test other patterns of the brand, like aime comme murmure or aime comme majestic. The patterns from the brand are not available as pdf, are only in French, and are not the cheapest, and shipping costs are additional. So we’ll see.

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