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My New Favorite Coat

October 1, 2012

As I write this post, I’m not done sewing it, yet I sense that my ongoing project has a potential to become just that and I’m so excited about it that I can’t wait the end of the stitching to post about it. Hopefully I won’t be disappointed…

I’m working on the Sophia coat, using a vivid red wool coating, and the pattern is coming along really well. The only difficulties so far are due to the operator, like applying interfacing to the right side of the sleeves hem. That’s what you get when you sew at night. While preparing this project, I considered tailoring the coat with hair canvas and padstitching and all, but ended up deciding against it, just because this coat is not meant to be tailored. It’s not a structured garment. The front doesn’t have a predefined roll line, it should rather drape freely. The garment has a lot of ease that is cinched by the belt. So I’m using fusible interfacing, applying it on the front and on all hem facings as instructed, and adding the top back on my own initiative.

The features I like so far:

  • technically forward: the pattern is multisized and comes in a pdf layered document. You select what you want to have printed: the cut lines, the stitching lines, and in which size. Is Burda/Burdastyle reading this? I hope they would… Admittedly, it could make grading from size A in the bust to size B in the hips a bit fiddly, but at least you have a choice.
  • pocket facings: very practical, since my bodice lining is a textured linen/viscose blend in contrasting black. The sleeves lining is black acetate, to allow me to slide into them.
  • Nice instructions: The instructions include nice little details, like clipping darts after sewing them, in order to reduce the bulk in the seams.
  • Nice construction methods like securing the pockets to the lining with some tabs. Never seen it before. I’ll make pictures of that step. Also the way the ease is worked into the lining is innovative to me. The lining is sewn at places e.g. CB with a 1 cm-seam allowance, then folded and press 1.5 cm from the border. The extra 0.5 cm is the seam allowance. Me likey. See for yourself:


Now one has to keep in mind that this is a pattern designed for the japanese frame, i.e. rather for the petites among us. I am not petite. Fortunately the largest size is about what I need as base for an FBA, which is exactly what I did, using the same method than Vicki Kate for her Renfrew top. Maybe I should have worked with dart instead but I didn’t want to enlarge it…

I’m hoping to have this finished or near finished by the end of the week, keep your fingers crossed and hope that DN has reasonable naps in the next few days…

3 Comments leave one →
  1. lilly20 permalink
    October 1, 2012 12:56

    Very beautiful coat!!!!! I love this color.
    Beautiful work;)

    Like

    • October 1, 2012 13:03

      This is not my version, it’s the pic that comes with the pattern. Mine will be done in a week or so and it will be red.

      Like

  2. October 2, 2012 07:26

    What a lovely style, and you can’t go wrong with red. Looking forward to seeing the results.

    Like

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