Work in progress: wedding dress 2
So the bride-to-be visited today and finally tried the muslin bodice on. Well, that’s not the whole story: she, the maid of honor and I first went shopping for the fashion fabric for the dress. We fell in love with a couple of fabrics but finally settled on a textured 51% silk-49% wool fabric from Escada in cream. Perfect for the winter. Unfortunately, we didn’t find a lining fabric in a matching color and non-man made fiber. That’s not critical, though. We also found a great silk fabric for the petticoat but there wasn’t enough yardage available so we’ll have to go back at a later time or look elsewhere.
Without further ado, here are the fitting pics (click to enlarge):
The fabric is way stiffer than the fashion fabric but you get the picture. Conclusion:
- the sleeves are good, albeit slightly too tight. Easy to change. The hemline was marked.
- the neckline should be extended 2 cm at shoulder seams, tapering to nothing in middle front, i.e. the depth of the neckline in the front remains unchanged, as well as the height in the back. You might also see how “pointy” it is in the middle front. This is what happens when you draft patterns using kitchen plates. I just got french curves last week, though, so expect the next muslin to look better.
- the overall fit is a bit too big. The bodice will be taken in at the back (darts), and sides.
- the front horizontal darts will be shortened to end 2 cm before the actual bust point.
- the underarm fit is too tight. Well, not too tight, it’s uncomfortable when she raises the arms, as made obvious through the wrinkles in the pictures above. I think I have to raise the armhole another 1.5 cm to give her more freedom of movement but don’t hesitate to weigh in if you think I should go another way. This change in conjunction with enlarging the sleeves probably means I’d have to remove some ease/fullness from the sleeve heads.
It sounds like a lot but I don’t think it is. And the skirt will be a breeze once the bodice is fitted.
Previous posts on this project here.