Call it a muslin and get over it
I wasn’t joking when I said the various sew-alongs are inspiring to me. After Pendrell, I’m now turning to the Cupcake goddess’s trouser sew-along. I’m now declaring these pants (Burda magazine 8-2009, #106) I made in 2009 (yes, it’s not a typo, 2009) a muslin and throwing them away. Not even a wearable muslin. Remember this post where I was asking about a trick against detergent stains? It was about these slacks. And this is a consequence of not finding a solution to the problem. It’s got such streaks all over it, which appeared after washing:
But I’m using the trouser sew-along as an incentive to pick them back up. Here they are with Pendrell and closed with a safety pin because I wasn’t going to make buttonholes and sew buttons on a throw-away muslin. I might even unpick the zipper before I discard these…
Based on my experience with Kasia, I knew when I looked at the technical drawing that they’d be super comfy. The waistband is an amazing 12 pieces, 6 on the outside and 6 on the inside. And they look very similar so you really have to be careful to sew them together the way they belong (in the right sequence and all upside up!). The shaped waistband is what makes the pants fit and feel so good. The other reason you’ll want to sew it carefully is that the seams need to match the pants seams in four places: the side seams and the dividing front seams. Here’s a good article on sewing perfect matchpoints on intersecting seams.
On the fit side, I didn’t and don’t intend to make any change, which is nice cause I’m not the master of alterations. If you see an obvious fitting issue, please address it in the comments, I could reconsider. I skipped the topstitching because I didn’t want to make them too casual. I also folded the corners of the cuffs (originally a mistake but I liked the look, especially since I skipped the topstitching) and secured them with two rivets instead of one.
If you don’t shorten these (I didn’t and I won’t) you’ll have to wear them with 5-cm (2-in) heels at the very least, which creates endless legs. I know you can’t see it on the pictures above. I promise I’ll try harder when I shoot the real thing.
Inserting the zipper was super easy, thank Sandra Betzina’s video. Burda’s instructions on that part are always more than poor. That’s one good thing I learned. I handstitched the inner waistband instead of stitching in the ditch into the seam from the front but I think next time I’ll try another finish. There are several interesting construction details on these pants, for example pocket facings and although I had no reason to hide my pocket lining, I like that it won’t be peeking out.
The pattern is traced, on to the cutting. I’m also taking the pattern review stash contest as a stash busting incentive so I’ll probably also use fabric from the stash.