Celeste copycat dress
The Celeste dress pattern from BurdaStyle is a variation of another pattern of theirs, Maddy. I got both back when they used to be free. The site now sells this one for 3$ but you can still have it for free on Craftzine. Here’s the original dress:
And here’s mine:
So much to the title.
I’m really happy about the plaid matching in the upper front and back, which I achieved based on the (in)famous Selfish seamstress’s method. This is a nice pattern that went together fairly well. The instructions are burdaStyle-like i.e. a bit more confusing than the Burdastyle magazine’s. I had to read them several times to understand how the facings were to be sewn. Okay, it might have been due to the fact that it’s the first time I stumbled on such construction but still, they tell you to “cut in” instead of “clip”? Anyways for anybody out there wanting to make this dress, here’s how it goes:
1. At this point, the lining and dress are both constructed, the zipper is installed. The front and back facings are sewn together at shoulder seam as instructed. Put lining and dress wrong sides together. Pin the facing to the dress right sides together and sew:
2.Press seam open, grade, clip and understitch (the instructions don’t say to but you know you want it):
3.Turn facings to the inside and handstitch to the lining. Burdastyle doesn’t say if you should slip-, catch- or blind stitch so it’s up to you. I opted for the latter. No matter how you do it, make sure you only catch the lining, not the outer shell. The same process is repeated at the sleeves with the pieces called “diagonal strips” in the instructions. These are your sleeve bindings. End result:
The inset was the most tricky part of it and I’m sorry but I don’t have a trick to ease that process. My only tip is to transfer the markings accurately and proceed as stated in the instructions, since this part is pretty well described. I made the dress lining first and had to unpick it a few times but it went in like a dream for the shell. There was a how-to on the site advising to interface the inset only inside the seam lines but I didn’t and am pretty happy about it. I found that interfacing the whole inset stabilized my fabric (which has a rather loose weave) and kept it from distorting during the sewing, which would have made it look wonky, like it does on the lining:
The hem is finished with satin bias on the shell and lining:
I think the dress fits well and is flattering despite the lack of back darts (though I think there is a hidden dart in that center back seam) and the horizontal back seam that emphasizes the widest part of my body (:D). All in all an intelligent design and a great pattern for confident seamstresses.